In 2018 I spent the better part of a week on the small, sparsely-populated island of Mljet, in Croatia, which is largely a national park. Our days were spent relaxing in the sun, swimming and exploring the island by rental car. We stayed in a simple B&B apartment on the coast, and the host couple living upstairs would bring down freshly-caught fish and herbs every evening (plus homemade ouzo, but that's another story!)
The most vivid food memory I have from our three weeks in Croatia – although we ate many superb dishes - were these barbecued fish. The cathartic act of preparing and tending to a coal barbecue, stuffing the fish with lemon and herbs and then eating with our fingers while the sun set… breathtakingly simple and mouthwateringly delicious.
Cooking whole fish is an affordable and easy way to feed a crowd. The skin protects the delicate flesh and the bones keep it nice and juicy. Lightly oil your grill before cooking, and fight the impulse to turn the fish too soon… it'll be ready to flip when the skin is nicely browned and no longer sticking.
Read the full article and get the recipe, here.